Archive for October 27th, 2008

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Donkey love

October 27, 2008

            27/10/09

 

            Weaving along the crumbling back roads that connect Sentap to Samarkand, we passed two donkeys on the roadside affectionately nuzzling one another. Reacting to that humbling display of animal emotion, Mark said that it made sense that donkeys would be so caring to each other: after so much time spent suffering as beasts of burden, it seemed only logical that they would manifest great empathy and compassion for those that shared the same fate.

 

            ‘Yeah’, Di agreed. ‘I’m sure that donkeys would make pretty good lovers, although I  bet they’d be really loud in bed!’

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Off the Silk Road

October 27, 2008

            26/10/08, Samarkand

            We have spent the last three days off the Silk Road tourist stretch. After Iran and Turkmenistan, whose precarious politics have not yet made them popular tourist destinations, the proliferation of mass tourism in Uzbekistan took me by surprise. The towns of Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand, each with its own claim to some civilizational greatness over the past millennium, are seeped in bed and breakfasts, tour buses and shop after stall after sidewalk of Uzbek women selling their coloured embroidered wares. Retired Europeans seem to be the pick of the moment, with French leading in terms of numbers.

 

            The combination of these tour groups with the recurring architecture of the Silk Road cities, which started to become tedious in that it is very similar to the mosques and madrassas of Iran, lead us to splurge over our $25-a-day budget in order to take a trip out to a nature reserve north of Samarkand. On the way there, we spent a night in a yurt camp in the Kyzylkum Desert near Lake Airdakul. Sure enough, we were joined in the camp by a group of about 20 retired French people, who filled the tranquil air with inquisitions as to the location of each other’s flashlights and an amusing, vodka-induced rendition of ‘Champs Elysees’. Yet this was to be expected, as our own presence there was equally explained by a penchant for the ‘roughing it’ type of tourism offered by yurts and camel treks that no doubt attracted them in the first place.

 

            On the other hand, the most amazing aspects of staying at the yurt camp were what raw, remote nature had to offer: a sunset so electric and vivid that it had me thinking that the whole planet was on the verge of bursting into flames; a night sky so brimming full and vibrating of stars that I could imagine the universe expanding; a sunrise so sublime and unassuming that it made me contemplate the insignificance of humans in that face of such simple majesty that has existed for eons before us, and will continue long after all of us loud, parasitic, digital camera-weilding, adventure-seeking travellers have faded into dust…

 

*          *          *

 

            The next day, we ventured up to the small village of Sentap in the Nuratau mountains, which sit . On the way, our driver stopped on the desert road and motioned towards some men working in the scrub. ‘Gold’, he said in English.  We got out of the car and walked over to them. There were two: one was manning a small, hand-held shovel, scraping rocks and gravel onto a grill-lined trough on an incline, while the other poured bucket after bucket of dirty grey water over the stones. The stones would run down the rough and out the other end, while small flecks of glinting material would stick in the grill. Behind them was a huge mound of gravel that had already been sifted through. Not far away was a hole that had been dug 10 metres into the ground. From the bottom, our driver explained, they had dug 200 metres horizontally and pulled out all the gravel in that tunnel, which would then get sifted through as they were currently doing.

 

            They said that hey sifted through some 30 buckets of gravel a day, which yielded about 2 grammes of gold, and that they received $28 per gramme. Which meant that they made $28 each a day, but only during the last phase of the extraction process, which was the shortest and least physically challenging. Factoring in the length and effort of the entire process compared to the income, the Uzbek gold mining industry came across as a harsh livelihood.

 

            Back on the road, we headed towards Sentap. Originally, we had been seeking the Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biosphere Reserve, and we are still unsure as to whether or not this village was actually part of the reserve. Regardless, it proved to be a charming place, situated on the banks of a small river, where it seemed that humans were far outnumbered by farm animals. The dusty, meandering road and the walnut groves on either side of it were the realm of cows, sheep, donkeys, goats and turkeys. Here and there, big fluffy dogs with their ears snipped curled up in patches of sunlight, straining for the warmth.

 

            We were able to stay in the guesthouse of a lovely family spanning 3 generations, who we were fortunately able to have some minor communication with due to the fact that the village, like Bukhara, Samarkand, and much of southern Uzbekistan, is ethnically Tajik, and that Tajik differs from all the other Central Asian language in that it is almost 80% Farsi. The ‘boss’ of the house Shoddiboy and his younger brother Umid also spoke some French, because most of the visitors they received were French (ah, gotta give it to the French for their undying search for adventure…)

 

*          *          *

 

            On the second day, Umid took us on a 21km hike through the mountains, up to a lake 1000 metres higher than the guesthouse. the beginning of the walk was easy, following the river up along wide paths, under the bright yellow and orange leaves that still remained in the brisk end of autumn. About 6km in, we started to climb steeply, increasing our altitude by 400m in about a kilometre. Arriving at the top, we had spectacular panoramic views of the mountains as they sank quickly into the desert and completely disapppeared into flat yellow sands, with Lake Airdakul glowing sapphire on the horizon. The remainder of the way to the lake was much easier, along the light inclinations of the plateau atop the gorge we had just suffered up.

 

            The lake itself was quite disappointing: muddy, shrunken and shallow. An oversized duck pond more than a lake. We huddled next to a pile of rocks, the only minor protection from the harsh wind that swept the plateau, and ate a meager lunch of boiled potatoes, tinned corn and hard bread with our icy fingers, although our fare was more than Umid’s, who refused the potatoes and corn and only picked at some bread and an apple.

 

            Eager to begin walking again to fight off the cold, we started off on a different return route and encountered a stunning sight: five wild horses emerging from a distant hilltop, galloping in our direction. Four had milk-chocolate coats, while the fifth shone pearl white. As they approached, they varied their pace but didn’t seem bothered by our presence. They came within a couple hundred metres of us and stopped for a few seconds, as we fumbled with our cameras like the imagophiles we have come to be. Then, they altered their direction and galloped past us. The grace of their flowing manes and the rhythm of their hooves against the hard ground held us in rapture for the entirety of their passing. At one point, Caro noticed that one of them had a rope attached to it, which led us to question how wild they really were. Yet despite the somewhat shaming reminder of the presence of humans in their lives, the majesty of their movements still hinted at an image of absolute freedom, that notion for which they have come to symbolise. 

 

            The descent was more grueling than the climb, for the alternate path was no more than a goat trail over the tops of the mountains and along slippery scree slopes on the side of the peaks. For a second time, we were rewarded for the difficulty of the route when we passed underneath a rock face that housed eagles nests. Three, five, eight, twelve, as we walked the number of great birds that we saw circling above us in the sky just kept increasing. With J’s binoculars, we were able to gain excellent views of the pristine white down of their underbellies, and distinguish the shapes of the thick brown feathers at either end of their outstretched wings. They glided with such ease, mastering the heights of the gorges below. I felt humbled, embarrassed at the limitations and aches in my own limbs as I plodded along so disorientated and earth-bound beneath them… All the effort we have to go through, I thought, to get one single glimpse of these beings whose innate strength and beauty shame the human condition.

 

*          *          *

 

            The following morning, while tucking into rice and pumpkin for breakfast, the sounds of music being blasted through great speakers nearby and flocks of villagers walking in its direction aroused our interest. A party for a new baby, Umid told us. Requesting our unhappy driver that he wait another hour before taking us to Samarkand, we ventured off towards the music.

 

            In a field not far away, hundreds of green plastic chairs and tables had been set out in two separate sections, one for men and one for women. The majority of the 1,500 villagers were there, all decked out in their finest attire: the men in grey suits or black jackets, often accompanied by some traditional hat or other; the teenage boys in logo-embedded tracksuit jumpers which ranged from Adidas to Arsenal; the older women with their hair tied in wildly colourful scarves, wearing ankle-length dresses and waistcoats in brightly patterned, sequined and sparkling materials; the young girls in solid synthetic dresses with shiny black shoes. 

 

            A stream of people was entering the festivities from the house closest to the field,  every person carrying a bowl of soup with bits of meat and veg poking out in each hand. Every table was crowded with bottles of fizzy drinks and vodka, plates of various cold cuts and pieces of meat, round loaves of bread, and bowls of peanuts, almonds and individually-wrapped sweets. At the front of the layout, two amplifiers were set on a deafening volume, blasting out the voice of a man who stood with a microphone, singing against pre-recorded music. Behind him sat the table d’honneur, the family of the newborn.

 

            The six of us wandering in in our fleeces, hats and scarves was obviously an amusing sight to many of the children. We were welcomed by a man who seemed to be of some sort of authority, and he pulled up chairs for us at one of the tables with the men. Fearing I would be forced into a vodka shot at 10:30 in the morning, I managed to slip off in order to go back tot he house and collect something to offer as a present to the baby: a scarf I had gotten in Khiva and a pair of knitted socks Caro had from Bukhara. Returning 10 minutes later, my suspicions were confirmed when Di said that she had not managed to escape the obligatory celebrational vodka.

 

            I was not let off completely though, for as i offered our small gifts to grandmother who held the bundle centre-of-attention in her arms, I was pulled by another granny, the hostess of our gueshouse, into the space between the tables that was obviously the dancefloor. Imitating as best i could her movements, I pranced about for a couple of minutes to the amusement of the many gathered around, and then made a pink-faced exit towards my friends stood laughing from the sides.

 

            I would have liked to stay for longer ( think that after a few vodkas, the dancing would have been a lot easier), but our impatient driver awaited. i was grateful nonetheless for having been able to witness the celebration, however briefly. The aspect that fascinated me the most about it was that it was not only an open invitation for everyone in the village, but so many people were participating in making the event happen and run its course. I thought of how many women there would have been slaving away in several different kitchens in order to produce enough food for the hundreds gathered. I thought about how we saw big present packages wrapped in cellophane filled with dolls and clothes for the baby, and how that would also have required a pooling of resources. I thought of the beeline of people carrying bowls of soup to the guests. All this made me realise that everyone was making a tangible contribution to the event.

 

            I concluded that the dynamic of the celebration was very different from the way that we have large-scale parties in Europe. There, festivities are an industry: one rents a space, one hires caterers, waiters, photographers, entertainers… Whereas in Sentap, I think that the only person who might have been receiving a fee was the singer. Everybody else was just assuming their part of the responsibility that accompanies the festivity.

 

            These were the ethics of community that have been largely lost in the way we celebrate in urban centres around the world, where solidarity is replaced with convenience. I think that in the first major shindig I have in my life, I will take inspiration from that village party in the mountains of Uzbekistan instead of bowing to the weight of my own social conventions; not as an appropriation of some romanticised exotic, rural purity, but as a reclaiming of a set of communal values that, in many places, I feel have been forgotten.

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The death of a vegetrian. Or, “Displacement and the suspension of principles”

October 27, 2008

           24/10/08

           I have always rejected the dogmatic clinging to principle, because all value judgments take root in and are thus only valid in a specific context. I believe that as context changes, the tenets that people hold dear also change.

 

            Some would deem that fickle. Others would agree and argue for the contingency of the individual, recognising that as circumstances change, so the self changes. Both are charges that threaten us: on one hand, our integrity is compromised by hypocrisy; on the other hand, our adaptability pales in the face of immutable conviction. As with all things, therefore, it is a matter of balancing the two, of negotiating some stance between two-faced irresponsibility and blind, unconditional devotion.

 

*          *          *

 

            I have self-defined as a vegetarian for over six years. I say ’self-defined’, because by some people’s standards, I would not have even merited the designation ‘vegetarian’, because I seldom chose to eat fish. Such a decision was motivated by the philosophy that motivated my ‘vegetarianism’ in the first place: an inclination towards boycotting exploitative methods of production while accepting local, small-scale produce.

 

            I stopped eating meat at the same that I started to acquire broader socio-political awareness. In my last year of high-school in France, reading books such as Naomi Klein’s No Logo and discovering the ”Another world is possible” slogan of the World Social Forum introduced me to the concept of responsibility in consumerism. On one hand, it was your classical late-nineties anti-globalisation fare, which entailed choosing not to buy products produced by sweatshop labour or associated with multi-national corporation (who abused human rights and undermined local, independent business). On the other hand, it led to me ceasing to eat meat, which in university continued into a penchant towards products (especially dairy) produced according to Fair Trade and organic standards.

 

            My borderline flirtations with eating fish sprouted from a belief that if you ate it from local sources, you were supporting small-scale industry and not causing too much environmental/social tension. Initially, I only ate it at the sea-shore in France, Italy or my dad’s house in the Caribbean (dare I divulge the privilege of my upbringing). But then, after a couple years, I became lazy and my occasional contingently-justifiable delights (once every few months) became more frequent indulgences, perhaps sushi in a self-proclaimed ’sustainable’ sushi bar, or the odd package of Sainsbury’s Organic smoked salmon (the debate regarding purchasing supermaket-produced organic and fair trade products from huge companies that monopolize the market or threaten small business exceeds the scope of this piece, but is nevertheless something that requires much more deliberation).

 

            Consequently, it became that my principles concerning fish consumption were more flexible than before, and I found myself being more and more able to justify eating fish. Recently, more precisely over the last couple of weeks, my convictions regarding eating red meat have fallen victim to a similar tendency.

 

            The cause of my choice to boycott of meat products originates in a disgust of the industry. Consequently, I have often maintained that I would consider eating meat that came from animals reared in more humane methods, such as traditional shepherding. And during a stop over in the very small village of Jerbent in the Karakum desert of Turkmenistan, on the highway between Ashgabat in the south and Dashogus in the north, I took myself up on that.

 

            Jerbent is pretty much the closest place I’ve ever been in to the Middle of Nowhere: a tiny village of perhaps a few hundred inhabitants living in single-story, rectangular houses scattered on the sand. Outside these houses, camels can be found either attached by ropes to wooden troughs or wandering aimlessly through strewn rubbish in the company of chickens. Sheep and goats are kept in circular pens made out of large, 2 metre-high tree branches, with their broader end fixed into the sand while the twigs of their narrower extremity reach up into the cloudless blue sky. One of the roads encompassing of the village had been completely encroached upon by the constantly shifting dunes of the desert, and served as the slightest indication of the power of the natural forces at play in that harsh environment.

 

            Our two cars pulled up to a house whose owner was accustomed to providing sustenance to passing drivers and their passengers, given that after Turkmenbashi ordered the demolition of the other main village on the desert highway, apparently because it did not conform to an example of the progressive society he was attempting to forge,  Jerbent is the only real source of human activity for a 500 km radius. We were led into a narrow room with no furnishings apart from a refrigerator and a collection of jars filled with stewed fruit and pickles in one corner. The ten of us (2 drivers and 8 passengers) sat around a plastic tablecloth spread out on the floor, something we had grown accustomed to during our time in Iran and which I had come to admire for its convenient dispensing of practicalities such as not having enough chairs to accommodate unexpected guests. Our hostess served us green tea, and then asked if we wanted something to eat. The only thing on offer was lamb, and, to the surprise of both my vegetarian and omnivore companions,  I put in a request.

 

            Now, I had had a small breakfast of coffee and biscuits a few hours before. I was by no means famished, and we had enough apples, apricots and various other tidbits to last through the 6 hours until we were to arrive at our destination. Therefore, my decision to eat the lamb was not motivated by a fear of hunger, nor was it out of politeness to the hosts. I, quite simply, was not bothered by the thought of eating a sheep raised in the Turkmen desert. In fact, and perhaps slightly morbidly, the idea rather appealed to me.

 

             The meat came in sizable chunks soaking in its gravy on two communal plates with some chopped raw onion sprinkled on top, to be eaten by hand with the help of bread. The flesh was salty, fatty and tender, and it gushed its full-bodied juices onto my taste buds. I chewed and chewed, entertained by the challenge of masticating that unmistakable consistency, while savouring the distinctive, succulent flavour.

 

            Yes, I really enjoyed that simple dish of dead desert sheep, despite feeling it sit heavily in my intestines following the meal. And, perhaps in total hypocrisy, I am not ashamed of that enjoyment. Even more shocking, I decided to reindulge the growing carnivore inside me about a week later, when I ordered a lamb shashlyk (grilled on a skewer) in Bukhara, Uzbekistan…

 

            So, what now? Do I consider myself a ‘meat-eater’. Should I? Is my claim to vegetarianism nullified by these recent spurts of lamb meat-love?

 

            In response to these questions, Di made the useful point that no labels are ever either seamless and therefore often dispensable. ‘Don’t call yourself a vegetarian, just say that you don’t eat meat’, she suggested. Yet although that may be a practical way of framing the situation when I’m ordering food in a restaurant, how does it sit when placed within the philosophical debate about the ethics of human consumption of animals? Does the fact that I have veered from the principled path of vegetarianism forsake the ground from which I am able to criticise the exploitative, unsustainable methods used in most western meat production?

 

            And what about other pro-vegetarian arguments, such as the fact that in view of the world food crisis, the amount of grain that it takes to nourish an animal could sustain many, many more people than the those that would get my on the amount of meat derived fro that animal. Accordingly, it would follow that the most humanitarian decision would be for us to renounce meat so that the grain that would normally go to the meat industry could be directly redistributed to those populations who experience food shortages. But where does shepherding fit into that logic? Surely, animals that survive on the dry, prickly vegetation of the Central Asian semi-desert are usurping neither actual food resources nor arable land? 

 

            Despite the rationalisation that I am increasingly capable of, I am left with a resounding suspicion that my relativism, through which I evaluate my actions based on the specificities of the context, still stinks of hypocrisy.

 

*          *          *

 

            In order to come to some sort of pertinent evaluation of the situation, I have come to the conclusion that my recent decisions to eat meat should to be situated alongside other choices I have made during these travels. For example, over the past month my qualms about purchasing certain products, namely from Coca Cola and Nestle, have been similarly neglected. Again, the decision to boycott these companies dates back to my student days, when Coke was accused of murdering some of its employees who were members of a turbulent trade union in South America; while Nestle occupies a prestigious spot on the ‘Black List’, a group of companies who have either administrative or economic ties to the Zionist movement. In the U.K., France, America, I am often adamant about the importance of such boycotts, framing them in terms of a broader ‘ethical consumerism’, which seeks to reject placing one’s purchasing power in companies that use sweatshop labour (Nike), or have investments in arms companies, or tend to monopolise certain markets (Chiquita banana).

 

            Since travelling, however, I have become so slack when it comes to following through with such principles: if i feel a bout of dodgy stomach emerging while on public transport, I’ll buy the first Coke I see because it really helps settle the stomach. Similarly, having to wake up at 7am to catch a bus after a night on the vodka is greatly assisted by a hot cup of instant coffee, which not always but often comes in the form of Nescafe. So, several years of practicing what I preached have flown out the train window,.

 

            I wonder:

 

            To what extent is being removed from one’s context or ‘normalcy’ taken as a license to permit oneself abnormal behaviours?

 

            Does travelling, with the vast changes that it implies in terms of language, culture, values, become a good excuse for deviance?

 

            Do the combined sensations of movement, temporariness, transit and difference combine to make us more prone to suspend our tenets in the name of ‘adjustment’ and ‘compromise’?

 

            Or, does travelling across the world with a backpack consume so much energy that we become, quite simply, lazy?